Greece

Sat August 19 - Sun September 3, 2006
Athens - Sizzling in the Urban Jungle
I spent a few days at the beginning of my holiday staying in Alkis's uncle's central flat in Eksarhia, which had superb skyline views of Athen's urban jungle of ever-growing antennas. While Alkis frantically caught up with friends and family, Angelina and I braved the 42degC heat to visit Plaka, the Archaelogical Museum and the Museum of Cycladic Art, with stops for coffee, food and shopping.

We enjoyed an evening at a local taverna in Metaksurgio eating an assortment of squid, gavros (tiny marinated fish), Atherina (tiny fried fish) and Saganaki (fried hard cheese) before drinking at a bar in Monastiraki with an excellent view of the lit Acropolis. Another evening was spent gorging on traditional Greek takeaway... Souvlaki!!

Milos - Hearts and Flowers
On the Tuesday we woke early (5.30am!!!) to make our way to Piraeus, the port, to catch our boat to Milos. After 7 hours we couldn't wait to set up our tents in Achivadolimni and cool off in the nearby clear waters. The next 4 days were spent exploring the island by car; swimming off the white rock shores of Sarakiniko; losing myself in the narrow cobbled lanes of Plaka's white washed geometric homes with blue trimmings; watching the sun set at Plathiena; playing with the multicoloured rocks at Firiplaka; eating in a village called Tripiti; driving along a coastline of beautiful scenery to Gerontas; visiting the village of Pollonia; swimming between the cliffs of Papafragas (known as the pirate's lair during the 18th Century). We made a cafe called Paleos our post-lunch venue for coffee, learning Greek and discussing the myriad of traditional dishes I had tried and would try, including the spiky fruit fragosika, stuffed tomatoes and aubergines, fava, mussels in spicy tomato sauce, Horiatiki (Greek salad), chickpeas, mousaka, domatokeftedes and Soutzoukakia to name a few. I have also become quite addicted to Greek (Turkish!) coffee and their delicious cold coffee (Freddo) is perfect for hot days.

I loved Milos! The combination of camping, beautiful weather, gorgeous clear waters, various types of beaches, peaceful and less touristy atmosphere with A&A's lovely company and insight in to Greek tradition, history, language and food made me very relaxed and fulfilled. (the Hearts and Flowers reference is because whilst camping, I would listen to music at night - one evening I heard a Lamb song called Hearts and Flowers - I haven't heard it before - needless to say for those who understand the reference, once again, home was brought close to me.)

Kimolos - Siesta with the Saints
One day we visited nearby Kimolos. We ate and napped outside a church in the main square of Hora before a lady opened her Kafenio, O Kabos. As Alkis was helping her unpack the chairs after the siesta, Angelina reminded him to be quiet to which the elderly lady responded

"Don't worry, you won't wake the saints"

and pointed towards the church. She served Gliko tu Kutaliu (Teaspoon deserts of sweet preserved fruit) with our Greek coffee, gave us peaches to take with us and sprigs of basil to smell. She made my day... she was genuine, friendly and warm.

Santorini
Santorini's submerged caldera is impressive, creating dramatic views of cliffs plunging in to the sea and home to steep narrow passageways of shops, cafes, restaurants and homes that look as if they are spilling down the cliffs during the day and hovering above them at night. We stayed in Fira, enjoyed exploring Ouia and loved wine tasting at the oldest vineyard on the island.

Athens again
After a few days on Santorini we packed up all our gear again to head back to Athens where we were lucky to stay with Alkyone and Amaryllis in Kolonaki. Thankfully the temperature had cooled a little and I spent an afternoon visiting the Acropolis and surrounding areas before being treated to Angelina's cooking. I spent my last few days in Athens with the girls, dining and partying for Amaryllis's name day with all their welcoming friends while A&A went to Volos to relax and catch up with family. I had a wonderful holiday, it's just a shame I ended my holiday so dramatically by missing my flight home!